Who knew a cruise with no kids, no crowds, and no casinos would be the best way to restore my Christmas spirit?
I’m not going to lie, when I was first invited on a holiday-themed cruise along the Rhine, I rolled my eyes. A full week of Christmas markets? For someone who felt like the holiday season had lost its lustre, the idea sounded more exhausting than enchanting.
I used to get swept up in the magic of Christmas, but in recent years, as a mother of three, the holidays have become more about making the magic happen for everyone else than about enjoying the magic myself. Still, I had high hopes that wandering through Europe’s most festive towns would reignite my love for Christmas, just in time to share it with my family. I didn’t know it yet, but this cruise would unwrap more than just the twinkly trinkets I took home in my tote–it would help me reacquaint myself with the wonderment of Christmas.
Begrudgingly Boarding in Basel
I arrive fully cloaked in Christmas cynicism. When I step aboard, I expect to see kitschy Christmas décor: Plastic trees plastered in tri-colored tinsel and candy canes, and a crew donning oversized Santa hats and bright, clashing-patterned sweaters, jingling bells and chanting carols in unison. But there is none of that here. Instead, classy Christmas trees sit tucked in the corners, bright baubles and white lights giving off a warm glow. Quiet jazz renditions of holiday classics fill the air, and the crew welcomes us with friendly smiles–no Santa hats in sight.
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I’m joined by my cousin, who arrives sharing the same sentiment–she has also never been to a Christmas market and is also wary about getting maxed out on merriment over the next week’s winter-themed festivities. But we quickly discover there’s more to this trip than the stalls, shops, and sweet treats found in the markets.
Misty-Eyed Market Meander
Trinkets and treats sit stacked on stall tables, and crowds crisscross the aisles, buzzing with chatter and Christmas cheer. The smell of roasted chestnuts fills the air. Darkness falls quickly and I warm my hands on my mug of mulled wine as I take in my surroundings. In the center of the town square, three women dressed in Victorian caroller costumes sing in harmony as they belt out the words, “Stille Nacht, Heilige Nacht…” I can’t make out the lyrics, but I recognize the tune: Silent Night. Their voices fill the air, and some passersby join in, singing along, while others stand silently, taking it in.
Viking
I look around at the twinkling lights, smiling faces, couples holding hands, and kids jumping up and down with excitement, and I feel it. It’s…magical. Over the following days, we visit Christmas markets across four countries, and it doesn’t take long for me to realize that each stop has something different to offer. Basel’s market is refined and high-end, set in a beautifully preserved old town, serving Swiss specialties like raclette and fondue. In France, Strasbourg is recognized as the country’s “Capital of Christmas,” with a massive market, timber-framed stalls, and a rich mix of French and German goodies. Germany brings variety: Cologne impresses with a market that weaves around the grand cathedral; Rüdesheim offers a cozy, wine-country feel; Mannheim’s modern city setting delivers big crowds and global flavors; Freiburg leans into regional cuisine, showcasing festive treats from the Black Forest; and Breisach, though smaller, feels authentic and personal. In Koblenz, a scenic gondola soars over the Rhine to a fortress that overlooks the city–a unique experience that sets the stop apart. And finally, in the Netherlands, Dordrecht hosts the country’s largest Christmas market, full of Dutch treats, bright lights, and festive fun for all ages.
With each market, new memories are made, and with each sip of hot mulled wine I feel my cold heart warming up to the holiday cheer. Could exploring Europe’s best Christmas markets be giving me the time and space I needed to rekindle my love for Christmas?
Rhined and Dined
Between stops, we cozy up on the rooftop patio of our two-story ship and cruise past castles (I count more than a dozen), sipping on hot cocoa and sharing stories while snapping photos of our surroundings. The stretch between Rüdesheim and Koblenz delivers the most scenic sights–a 40-mile stretch often referred to as the Romantic Rhine. It’s one of the most castle-dense regions in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrated for its extraordinary landscape and historic architecture. We take breaks dining on delectable dishes downstairs, where floor-to-ceiling windows ensure we don’t miss a moment of the views while devouring delicious multi-course meals.
Dmitry Pistrov/Shutterstock
On board, we become kids again, decorating gingerbread cookies with sweet icing and rainbow-colored sprinkles, the scent of Christmas spices filling the air. We share laughs with new friends over dinner, and even sing along to carols while sipping cocktails in the lounge. We chat with other guests, and learn that many are enjoying their second, fourth, and even sixth Christmas market river cruise–they loved it the first time, and now they’re hooked.
Holiday Grinch Turned Happily Giddy
Viking
By the end of the week, I’m giddily glugging gluhwein, and buying a mug from every Christmas market I visit. I’m humming along to holiday tunes while strolling through the sparkly stalls, and unabashedly buying tiny trinkets and Christmas keepsakes for my kids (did I really need a mini glass tree?). Without the pressure to make the holidays magical for everyone else, I’ve finally found the magic for myself. It’s not just the beauty of each town or the charm of the cruise that has me swooning for Christmas; it’s the permission to slow down and enjoy the experience. I wasn’t just collecting souvenirs, I was slowly finding something I thought I had lost: a love for the holiday season that I thought I’d outgrown. With a new outlook, I’m now heading into the holidays with a renewed love for Christmas and a restored desire to share the festive cheer with my family. Consider this Grinch converted–and already dreaming of adding to my mug collection.
