Spain has long been associated with sun-drenched beaches, vibrant cities, and world-famous cuisine. While Barcelona, Madrid, and Ibiza are famous for a reason, the true soul of Spain is often found in its remote corners. One of the areas I love the best is Northern Spain, with its green mountains, rugged coastline, and medieval villages, offers an entirely different perspective. It doesn’t get as many visitors as the hotspots in the south but it is just as beautiful in my opinion.
If you want to see a quieter side of Spain, consider stepping off the usual tourist trail and heading north after your flight to Madrid. Spend a few days in Madrid (which is amazing) and then train it north for a week or more to wander along paths the Romans once carved into mountains, explore deserts few travelers know, and hike to villages where traditions persist centuries after empires have fallen.
Today, I want to share three destinations that I love: Las Médulas, the Bardenas Reales, and Santillana del Mar. Each offers a unique blend of history, natural beauty, and cultural immersion, and each is accessible enough from Madrid.
1. Las Médulas
Nearly two millennia ago, Roman engineers transformed this landscape in search of gold. Using a technique called ruina montium (“wrecking of mountains”), they channeled water through tunnels to collapse entire hillsides, revealing the region’s gold deposits. The result is a surreal landscape of jagged red cliffs, hollows, and gullies, softened by forests of chestnut trees and dotted with walking trails. Today, Las Médulas is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a testament to human ingenuity and the enduring power of nature. Hiking through the gullies and Roman galleries, it’s easy to imagine the labor and vision required to reshape this rugged terrain.
What I love about Las Médulas is the quiet. Even in high season, you can find stretches of trail where the only sounds are your footsteps and the rustle of leaves. The views from the ridges are spectacular, and the scent of chestnuts lingers in the air. It is a place that makes you slow down, not just to take photos but to let the history and the stillness sink in.
Highlights and Trails
- Senda de las Valiñas (4km loop): This gentle trail winds through shady chestnut groves and past openings to Roman tunnels. It is perfect for an easy morning walk that still gives you a sense of the site’s scope. Stop often to look up at the cliffs; the red soil against the greenery makes for striking photos.
- Mirador de Orellán: A short but steep climb leads to a platform overlooking the scarlet ridges and valleys. Sunset is my favorite time here when the fading light turns the cliffs almost orange. There is also a small gallery where you can see how the Romans dug into the rock.
- Galería de Orellán: If you enjoy a bit of adventure, explore this restored mining tunnel. Standing inside, you can imagine workers hauling out earth by torchlight.
- Senda Perimetral (14km loop): For committed hikers, this path circles the whole archaeological area. You will pass secluded forests, small farms, and the occasional wild boar track. It is long but not difficult, and you will often have it to yourself.
- Castro de Chano: A short drive away, this pre-Roman hillfort shows that the story of Las Médulas stretches back much further than the Romans.
- Mirador de Reirigo: A lesser-known lookout with a quiet bench and sweeping views across chestnut forests and distant hills.
Practical Details
Where to Stay: Ponferrada is only half an hour away and has a wide range of hotels and guesthouses.
Best Season: Autumn for golden foliage and crisp air. Spring brings mild weather and blooming wildflowers.
Tip: Bring water and a snack, especially if you plan to attempt the longer hikes. Maps or a GPS app will help you stick to the marked trails.
2. Bardenas Reales
Heading south from Pamplona, the landscape changes dramatically. Rolling farmland gives way to dry plains and eventually a semi-desert of ochre mesas and dramatic ravines. This is the Bardenas Reales, a 42,000-hectare natural park in Navarre. This place is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and an area of active military use, yet shepherds still graze their flocks across the plains, and wildlife such as griffon vultures and foxes thrive. The park’s isolation means you will often have most of the trails to yourself.
The first time I visited, I was surprised at how varied the scenery was. From a distance, it looks barren, but once inside, you notice details: rippling patterns in the clay, hardy flowers clinging to cracks, the occasional sheepdog trotting behind a herd. The sense of space is exhilarating. It is a destination that invites wandering and rewards those who take their time.
Sights and Routes
- Castildetierra: This slender rock pinnacle is the park’s symbol. Photographers love it at dawn when soft light highlights its delicate shape. Even if you are not chasing the perfect shot, it is worth lingering to watch shadows shift across the flats.
- La Blanca Baja Loop (34km): A drive or bike ride along this track gives you a full tour of the park’s central zone. Stop at overlooks to admire canyons, mesas, and wide basins where storms sometimes leave shallow pools.
- Piskerra and El Rallón Hike: This moderate route climbs into the heart of the badlands. Expect rugged paths and thrilling views from the top ridges. Bring plenty of water, as there is no shade once you leave the lowlands.
- Balcón de Pilatos: A high vantage point where griffon vultures wheel on warm air currents. Watching them soar over the ravines is an unforgettable experience.
- Cabezo de las Cortinillas: A quieter formation reached by a short track. The colors of the rocks shift from pale cream to copper depending on the sun.
- Río Aragón Corridor: Follow the green strip along the river for a softer side of the park. It is good for birdwatching and a break from the dry heat.
Practical Details
Where to Stay: Tudela is the nearest town, with comfortable lodgings and excellent local restaurants serving Navarra specialties.
Best Season: Visit in spring or early autumn for pleasant temperatures. Wildflowers appear after rain, adding touches of color to the plain. Summer can be extremely hot.
Tip: There are no services inside the park, so stock up on water, sunscreen, and snacks beforehand.
3. Santillana del Mar
Santillana del Mar is one of my favorite spots in northern Spain. It is located in Cantabria, roughly 30 minutes inland from the coast. Its cobbled streets, well-preserved medieval architecture, and charming plazas make it one of the most picturesque villages in the region. The town also serves as a gateway to one of the most important prehistoric sites in Europe, the Altamira Cave, famous for its Paleolithic paintings. Wandering its narrow streets is like stepping back in time, and staying overnight allows visitors to enjoy the tranquility once the day-trippers depart.
What makes Santillana special is how alive it feels. Despite its ancient walls, there is nothing dusty about it. Small bakeries sell buttery sobaos, shopkeepers greet you as you pass, and horses sometimes clop through the lanes. The rhythm is unhurried and warm.
Things to See and Do
- Collegiate Church of Santa Juliana: A Romanesque gem with serene cloisters and intricate capitals. Take your time exploring the arches and stone carvings.
- Altamira Cave Replica: The original cave is closed to preserve the art, but the replica is impressive. Standing beneath the ceiling of bison and horses gives you a glimpse of human creativity from 14,000 years ago.
- Museo de Altamira: A museum next to the cave that expands on the region’s prehistoric culture. The exhibits are engaging and family-friendly.
- Plaza Mayor: The central square is framed by stone houses with wooden balconies. It is a perfect spot for coffee or a late-afternoon glass of cider.
- Nearby Trails: From the village, you can wander into the surrounding hills where meadows meet oak woods. Some paths continue toward the coast, giving sweeping views of the Cantabrian Sea.
- Cuevas de El Soplao: A short drive away, this cavern is filled with spectacular stalactites, stalagmites, and unusual formations called helictites.
- Comillas: A neighboring town with Modernist architecture, including Gaudí’s Capricho, only 20 minutes by car.
Practical Details
Getting There: Buses run from Santander or Bilbao in about 45 minutes. Renting a car gives freedom to explore nearby coves and valleys.
Best Season: Spring and autumn bring mild temperatures and fewer crowds.
***
Spain’s headline attractions deserve attention, yet its lesser-known landscapes and towns reveal something richer. They remind us that beyond Spain’s beaches and bustling cities lies a country where history, geography, and everyday life converge into experiences worth lingering over. Whether you are tracing Roman tunnels in Las Médulas, riding a bike across the dusty tracks of the Bardenas, or sipping cider in a Cantabrian plaza, each moment adds a new layer to your understanding of Spain.
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