Presented at the Théâtre de l’Odéon on a sunlit Sunday afternoon, Shuting Qiu’s spring 2026 show unfolded like a lucid dream, merging personal memory, dynastic inspiration, and the soft armor of femininity. The theater, nestled beside a park filled with families, created an unusual backdrop: passersby paused to peek inside at the unfolding fashion spectacle of Tender Rebellion, a title that captured the collection’s mood precisely.
“It’s a memory from childhood,” Qiu said backstage, recalling how she once painted by lakes and mountains, dreaming of the woman she’d grow into. “I wanted to bring those dreams to life, how I imagined dressing up then, and what it means now.” This season, her signature florals and hyper-feminine flourishes—ruffles, embroidery, flou—took on new clarity. Silhouettes were more streamlined, with simplified shapes anchoring her exuberant textiles, while precise tailoring balanced the bows and lace.
Red made its debut in the Shuting Qiu universe: a saturated, lacquered tone inspired by the Tang dynasty. “It’s the first time I’ve used that color,” she noted. “It feels powerful, and I wanted to mix that tradition with something playful.” The palette also featured softer neutrals like beige, ivory, and brown, marking a shift away from the pop hues of her earlier collections. As ever, craftsmanship was central. Qiu collaborated with Chinese artisans to produce intricate bead embroideries and, for the first time, introduced crochet handbags made from leftover yarn. “It’s my first time working with crochet, and the response has been amazing,” she said, emphasizing the project’s sustainable values. Footwear echoed the tactile richness of the clothes: simplified shapes were adorned with pearls and beading to complement the textures above.
Lace played a starring role, appearing in red, black, ivory, layered over organza, embroidered netting, and striped georgette. A standout finale look, entirely in white, layered multiple lace textures like a bridal collage. The contrast of fragility and strength ran throughout, channeling what Qiu described as a different kind of feminine power: “Sometimes softness is not fragility,” she said. “It’s another way to express strength.” Compared to her previous outings in Milan, this second Paris show felt at once more intimate and more assertive. “It’s a different expression,” the designer reflected. “More mature, but still me.”
