Piedmont, Italy, Guide

Top 5 Can’t Miss

• Book a stay at Casa di Langa, a sustainable sanctuary with 39 rooms, a truffle concierge, and vineyard views.
• Forage for prized white truffles alongside trained dogs at the International Alba White Truffle Fair, one of Italy’s most celebrated fall food festivals.
• Sip the “king” and “queen” of wines, Barolo and Barbaresco, in the vineyards of Langhe-Roero and Monferrato, where centuries-old winemaking traditions thrive.
• Dine at Piazza Duomo in Alba, a three-Michelin-starred restaurant serving up Piedmontese ingredients remixed in new and inventive ways. 
• Spend an autumn afternoon strolling through Lake Orta, a quiet lakeside village that feels untouched by time.

I moved to Bra, a small town in the Piedmont region of Italy, when I was 21 to get a master’s degree in food culture and communications from the University of Gastronomic Sciences. Back then, my relatively limited knowledge of food came from binge-watching Ina Garten and collecting a mountainous pile of cookbooks that threatened to take over my bedroom. 

Wine, in particular, was a mystery to me. Before Italy, my drinking experiences were limited to whatever my friends and I could sneak from our parents’ liquor cabinets, preferably something sickly sweet like peach schnapps and vanilla vodka drowned in Diet Coke. I’d never enjoyed wine, and I certainly couldn’t discern the nuance of one varietal from another. But all of that changed when I moved to Piedmont—arguably one of Italy’s premier wine destinations.

Every afternoon around 5 p.m., my new friends and I would wander down Bra’s cobblestone streets to Boglione, the local bar, for aperitivo. We’d order a spritz, a prosecco, or a glass of wine, and settle in with a never-ending basket of focaccia. It was kind of like the complimentary bread baskets at American restaurants—but significantly better, because it was fresh, salty, and still warm. 

Even with my wildly untrained palate, the wine floored me—round and rich, full of berries, cherries, maybe even chocolate. I never wanted to drink anything else. And it was cheap. When I got back to the U.S. and realized the Barolo I’d grown accustomed to ordering for 2 euros a glass cost nearly $100 a bottle, I felt personally victimized.

While Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast may star in rom-coms and glossy travel guides, Piedmont still feels like one of Italy’s best-kept secrets, especially in the fall. Its rolling hills—recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site—glow gold, nebbiolo grapes are harvested, and white truffles are unearthed. Here’s how to plan a fall visit to Piedmont, Italy.

Courtesy of Casa di Langa

Best Hotels and Resorts

Casa di Langa

This hotel was named one of the best new hotels of 2022 by Travel + Leisure, and it’s not hard to see why: Casa di Langa is a stunning 39-room sanctuary in the rolling hills of Alta Langa. Its true distinction lies in its devotion to all things tartufo (truffle in Italian): The hotel boasts the first-ever truffle concierge, who will clean, store, and even ship your prized finds home in perfect condition. Guests can also head into the countryside to forage for these delicacies alongside expertly trained dogs.

NH Collection Torino Piazza Carlina

Set in a beautifully restored 17th-century building, this upscale hotel places you in the heart of Turin, Piedmont’s capital. You’re just steps from the Royal Palace and the Egyptian Museum, and the sleek, modern rooms and a peaceful rooftop terrace—ideal for soaking in the underrated Italian city—give the hotel a competitive edge. 

Relais San Maurizio

“My top hotel recommendation in Piedmont is Relais San Maurizio, a beautifully restored 17th-century monastery where guests can enjoy traditional local cuisine at a Michelin-starred restaurant,” says Julie Durso, a Scott Dunn private travel manager. It’s a peaceful, family-run retreat, about 90 minutes from Turin, and guests can indulge in vinotherapy treatments and soak in mineral-rich saltwater pools.

Vineyard landscape in Monferrato.

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Best Things to Do

Become a truffle expert.

Before truffle-flavored everything—from chips and dips to frozen pizzas—became ubiquitous, truffles were a luxury. Especially the white truffle of Alba, prized for its flavor, fragility, and freshness. Forget caviar, these wild treasures can cost upward of 3,000 euros per kilogram. That makes the annual International Alba White Truffle Fair, which runs over several weekends from mid-October to early December, a one-of-a-kind celebration. Try a cooking class, learn how to taste like a pro during sensory analysis workshops, and check out a bustling truffle market where you can buy certified white truffles straight from the source.

Sip on the “king” of wines at a UNESCO World Heritage vineyard.

When you imagine Italy’s iconic vineyard views—rolling hills lined with vines and dotted with stone farmhouses—there’s a good chance you’re picturing the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato regions in southern Piedmont, not Tuscany. This area, known for its breathtaking landscapes and deep-rooted winemaking heritage, was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014. It’s home to centuries-old cultivation techniques and nebbiolo, the prized red grape behind Barolo and Barbaresco, often called the “king” and “queen” of Piedmontese varietals. 

Eat and learn the “slow food” way.

Founded in 1986, the Slow Food movement began as a pushback against the rise of a singular food culture (think burgers and fries everywhere), and it’s still going strong. Every fall, members and food lovers descend on its birthplace of Bra, Piedmont, for the Cheese Festival, which takes over the town with tastings and producer booths, and Terra Madre Salone del Gusto in nearby Turin, a global gathering of farmers, artisans, and activists. Expect lively food stalls, sustainability talks, and conversations about the future of food.

Fresh pasta sold in Italy.

Laura La Monaca/Travel + Leisure

Best Restaurants

Piazza Duomo, Alba

Housed in a bubblegum-pink building in the small town of Alba, Piazza Duomo has ranked among the World’s 50 Best Restaurants for the past three years and holds three Michelin stars. The menu celebrates Piedmontese ingredients—many sourced from the restaurant’s own garden—infused with global influences. Plan well ahead: Reservations are booked months in advance.

Del Cambio, Turin

If you’re staying in Turin, Del Cambio is a must-visit. A longtime favorite of the creative set—past guests are said to include Mozart, Nietzsche, and Audrey Hepburn—the restaurant’s gilded interiors transport you to another age. Try a classic Piedmontese dish like vitello tonnato (veal with a tuna sauce).

Osteria Veglio

You don’t need to (and probably don’t want to) eat at a Michelin-starred restaurant every night of your trip, but for a meal that’s just as memorable, turn to Osteria Veglio. Easier on the wallet, but no less decadent, the menu is full of regional favorites, like tajarin and fiori di zucca, salsiccia di Bra, and, of course, bunet or panna cotta for dessert.

A cobblestone promenade in Bra, Italy.

Francesco Marzovillo/Getty Images

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Piedmont is from September to November, when the vineyards glow gold and amber, the air turns crisp, and the scent of truffles drifts through forested hills. Fall in Piedmont isn’t just beautiful—it’s delicious. 

As Durso says, “October is a fantastic time to visit, when guests can join a local truffle expert for a hunt for the elusive white truffle.” This is also when local markets brim with seasonal ingredients like porcini mushrooms, chestnuts, and hazelnuts. Wineries open their doors for tastings, long lunches stretch into the afternoon, and the slower pace of life invites you to savor it all. It’s also a season packed with festivals celebrating the region’s rich food culture—from cheese to wine to the world’s most coveted fungi. 

How to Get There

The capital city of Turin (Torino) is the most convenient hub for exploring Piedmont, though it may require a connecting flight. There are no direct routes from major U.S. cities, but it’s easy enough to fly from New York, Boston, or Chicago to European hubs like London, Paris, or Frankfurt, and connect to Turin from there. Alternatively, you can fly directly into Milan Malpensa Airport (MXP) and either rent a car or take the train to Turin or elsewhere in the region; it’s less than a two-hour drive through northern Italy’s scenic countryside.

Piazza San Carlo in Turin, Italy.

Laura La Monaca/Travel + Leisure

Cities and Towns to Visit

Turin

Turin is a stately, under-the-radar city nestled in a valley at the foot of the Alps. “It was even the original capital of the Kingdom of Italy from 1861 to 1865,” says Durso. “It also happens to be the birthplace of gianduja, the chocolate and hazelnut creation that inspired what we know today as Nutella.” With elegant piazzas, museums, historic cafes, and a growing culinary scene, Turin makes an ideal base for exploring the region. 

Alba

Best known for its white truffles and Barolo, Alba is a favorite among food and wine lovers. In the fall, the city hosts the famed International Alba White Truffle Fair, drawing chefs and travelers from around the world. It’s also home to charming cobblestone streets and enotecas that pour some of Italy’s most prestigious wines by the glass.

Orta San Giulio

Tucked away in northern Piedmont, Lake Orta is an unsung lakeside escape in Italy. The medieval village of Orta San Giulio sits right on the water, with narrow cobblestone streets, frescoed churches, and boats that ferry visitors to the serene Isola San Giulio. It’s quieter than neighboring Lake Maggiore, making it perfect for a romantic day trip or a peaceful overnight stay. Come autumn, the lakeside, framed by golden trees, is especially stunning.

How to Get Around

If you’re sticking to Turin or nearby towns, public transit is efficient and affordable. The GTT-operated metro, buses, and trams run frequently, with tickets starting at 1.70 euros for 100 minutes of travel. Regional trains Trenitalia and Italo connect Turin to cities like Alba, Asti, and Milan—ideal for day trips. For short city trips, Enjoy car sharing is available via app in Turin.

To fully explore Piedmont’s countryside and wine regions, renting a car is highly recommended. Book in advance for the best rates; major rental agencies operate at Turin Airport and in the city center. Drivers must be at least 21 years old and have a credit card.

Helpful apps include Trenitalia, Italo, and GTT for planning routes. BlaBlaCar is a good option for longer intercity rides. For a seamless experience, consider the Torino+Piemonte Card, which offers unlimited public transit and museum access.