The word that best captures Moisés Nieto’s latest collection is celebration. For spring, he revisited pieces from his past without a hint of nostalgia. It was a love letter to his beginnings, and a confident vision of what lies ahead. “I’m in a moment where I think a lot about each collection in relation to real women,” he explained hours before the show. “How will she wear the pieces? Where will she keep them if she’s traveling? Will they wrinkle? I think a lot about her comfort when I create.”
The collection builds on the signatures he has established so far: impeccable finishes, sculptural volume, and the presence of color—this time approached with a quiet, confident maturity. It’s a contrast to the spontaneity of his early days, which remain present in the excitement that fuels this collection. “What I’ve enjoyed the most was diving back into the archives, going back 15 years,” Nieto added. “I really wanted to revisit that playful spirit from my first steps in the industry—something comfortable, light, a little sexier.” It’s a process that he admits led him to experiment more than ever. “I’ve designed a younger collection.”
“Over the past five or 10 years, I stopped making those pieces, and had focused on a more sophisticated woman. Before, I used to let myself go with the trends. Now I think about essentials, about quality, about well-made tailoring and long-lasting clothes,” he said. Of course, Nieto’s goal is only attainable through experience. “In the end, you see which pieces work best. You get to know the client through the store,” he reflected.
His spring proposal came to life through a mix of fabrics and prints—stripes, polka dots—alongside shades of red and pink, and bows, a detail that even appeared in distressed denim, achieved with Jeanología technology. “It’s a company from Valencia that has developed a system to create laser-faded denim, using 98% less water per pair of jeans,” he explained. Partnering with this Spanish company, the designer is avoiding traditional garment washes and the pollution caused by dyes and chemicals. “I’m always looking a little towards the future,” he said.
