Kananaskis in the Canadian Rockies Is Just As Beautiful As Banff Without the Crowds

Top 5 Can’t Miss

• Book a room at Pomeroy Kananaskis Mountain Lodge in Kananaskis Village.
• Get a Canadian Rocky Mountain high by trekking into the alpine on a top-rated hike like Chester Lake.
• Rent an e-bike from Kananaskis Outfitters and explore some of the region’s cycling and mountain biking trails on two wheels.
• Order a drink from the G7 Global Cocktail Series at Blacktail Bar.
• Plan a visit for summer or early fall if you want to enjoy the best hiking weather.

Wedged between rolling frontcountry foothills and the towering peaks of the Canadian Rockies, Kananaskis is a patchwork of parks and protected areas spanning more than 1,500 square miles of mountain wilderness west of Calgary. With hundreds of miles of trails for hiking, mountain biking, and horseback riding, plus cerulean lakes for canoeing and kayaking, Kananaskis has been Alberta’s outdoor playground for decades. Now, thanks to hosting the G7 Summit in Kananaskis Village in June, it’s had its global debut.

“We used to say it’s the best-kept secret of the Canadian Rockies,” says Haylie Guinn, ranch manager at Boundary Ranch, who’s been living in Kananaskis most of her life. “Kananaskis is a little quieter and more secluded than Banff, but with just as much beauty.”

I’ve been returning to Kananaskis for 25 years for these reasons. It’s a place where I can hike or camp in a mountain setting right out of the movies (“The Revenant” and “Brokeback Mountain” were filmed here), but still feel like I have the forest path or picnic spot to myself. Even Kananaskis Village—the region’s hub with a hotel, restaurants, a spa, a general store, and an outfitting company—is in a serene valley surrounded by trails. It’s that easy access to nature that draws both Canadian and international visitors.

“The people who go there are looking for that kind of immersive experience,” says Andrew Hempstead, a longtime Banff resident who has authored 12 editions of the “Canadian Rockies” handbook for Moon Travel Guides. “There are still regions in Kananaskis that are not widely traveled.”

On a recent trip, I was thrilled to see Kananaskis is as laid-back and scenic as ever, with a few new-to-me surprises, like an expansive Nordic spa and my first black bear sighting on horseback (on previous visits, I’ve seen moose, bighorn sheep, and mountain goats from the car). Here’s how to make the most of a trip to Alberta’s lesser-known mountain enclave.

Best Hotels & Resorts

A guest cabin at Skyridge Glamping.

Skyridge Glamping

Pomeroy Kananaskis Mountain Lodge

With elegant dining options, a Nordic spa, and deluxe bedding and robes in the guest rooms, the Pomeroy Kananaskis Mountain Lodge in Kananaskis Village smooths out the rough edges of any wilderness getaway. Further elevating a stay, the newly launched Black Diamond Club spoils guests with a private lounge for breakfast and afternoon canapes, plus a concierge who can help plan bespoke itineraries.

Mount Engadine Lodge

This boutique wilderness lodge is set above a lush meadow framed by soaring limestone peaks in Spray Valley Provincial Park, one of Kananaskis’ nine protected parks. The cozy lodge rooms, rustic yet luxurious cabins, and glamping tents all nod to refined Canadiana—think wood headboards, plaid throw blankets, and woodsy touches like vintage snowshoes hanging on the wall. Overnight stays include breakfast, a to-go lunch for the day’s adventure, afternoon tea, and a gourmet Rockies-inspired dinner, like roasted Canadian lamb loin.

“The lodge is renowned for the whole experience. The food is really good, as are the views,” says Hempstead. In fact, guests have a good chance of seeing bull moose in the meadow below the lodge during the fall mating season.

Skyridge Glamping

For a couple’s getaway, the adults-only Skyridge Glamping near Kananaskis Village blends luxury with nature inside eco-cabins that bring the outdoors inside. Look for wildlife through floor-to-ceiling windows right from your king-size bed, or visit the property’s gear lending closet to borrow a backpack, trekking poles, and a map for a day hike. Cabins come kitted out with plush mattresses, in-floor heating, gourmet kitchens, and yoga mats for daily practice.  

Best Things to Do

Scenic view of Chester Lake.

BGSmith/Adobe Stock

Saddle up at Boundary Ranch.

Boundary Ranch offers a range of trail rides from May to October that are a fun way to experience the mountains while learning about the region’s ranching history. The two-hour Ridge Ride comes with fantastic views and the chance to see wildlife like deer or even bears.

Hike to Chester Lake.

This 5.5-mile out-and-back trail has it all: shady forests, wildflower-studded meadows, and a turquoise alpine lake at the foot of jagged mountaintops. In the fall, Hempstead recommends hiking just beyond Chester Lake to Elephant Rocks, a grouping of huge limestone boulders surrounded by coniferous trees called larches, whose soft needles turn buttery yellow in late September.

Swing by Kananaskis Country Golf Course.

There’s no guarantee you’ll see wildlife while driving down the emerald fairways at Kananaskis’ two top-rated golf courses, but every hole provides stunning mountain vistas and natural hazards like creeks and ponds. “The golf course is phenomenal,” says Hempstead. “The conditioning, the scenery—it’s in a wide-open valley with a river flowing through it.”

Go whitewater rafting.

The Kananaskis River features Class 2 and 3 rapids, which are the perfect introduction for rafting newbies or families. The river also flows through Canoe Meadows, a world-class whitewater course with human-made rapids that make running it a thrilling experience.

Unwind in the Kananaskis Nordic Spa.

Alberta’s original Nordic spa disconnects bathers from technology while connecting them to the great outdoors. Cycle through the spa’s saunas, steams, hot pools, and cold plunges, then retire to a breezy hammock or calming cabin for idyllic repose. “The spa is definitely my happy place,” says Guinn.

Best Restaurants

Interior of Blacktail Bar at Kananaskis Lodge.

Marriott

Forte Restaurant

Modern Italian dishes are on the menu at Forte, a casual spot in Kananaskis Village. “Their oven-fired pizzas are really good,” says Guinn. “And the pasta dishes, like the braised short rib pappardelle, are excellent.” After dinner, take your glass of wine outside for dessert—complimentary s’mores made by a campfire at the Kananaskis Mountain Lodge.

Summit Restaurant

Located in the golf course clubhouse, Summit Restaurant serves up classics such as burgers and sandwiches, plus elevated fare with a Canadian twist, like panko-crusted walleye. Stop in for dinner and a drink on the sun-drenched patio after a round of golf, or pedal there for lunch along the paved pathway from Kananaskis Village.

Blacktail Bar

This inviting lobby lounge shakes up globally inspired cocktails and pairs them with shared plates and handhelds like the prime rib cheesesteak sandwich. Order a drink from the G7 Global Cocktail Series, created by mixologist Graham Hart to recognize the countries that attended the G7 Summit.

The Longview Steakhouse

Located on the eastern edge of Kananaskis, where the mountains flatten out, this eponymous steakhouse is known as much for its long prairie views as its tender cuts of beef.  “The Longview Steakhouse is one of the best meals I’ve had in my entire life,” says Hempstead. “They use all local beef, and you can’t get a reservation this year—there’s no priority for food writers or celebrities or football stars.” 2026 reservations are closed, too, but you can join a reservation exchange Facebook group.

Best Time to Visit

Hiking on Tent Ridge Horseshoe Trail in Kananaskis.

Jonathan Dakin/Adobe Stock

The best seasons to visit Kananaskis for outdoor activities are summer and early fall, when the trails are dry and warmer temperatures prevail. But even though the weather mostly cooperates, it can change quickly, and adventurers should carry extra layers and rain gear, just in case. Kananaskis is also smack in bear country, and it’s recommended to travel in groups, make noise along the trail, and carry bear spray on hikes or mountain bike rides.

Winter is also a wonderful surprise, when soft snow blankets valley trails and dusts the mountaintops. Kananaskis Outfitters rents out snowshoes, Nordic skis, and winter fat bikes, or you can go downhill skiing at Nakiska Ski Area, which was built for the 1988 Winter Olympics.

How To Get There

A sign for Kananaskis Village.

MelissaMN/Adobe Stock

Kananaskis is located about an hour’s drive west of Calgary. The Calgary International Airport (YYC) is the most convenient gateway, with direct flights from major U.S., Canadian, and European cities.

How to Get Around

You can take a shuttle to Kananaskis Village from the airport, but a rental car will give you more flexibility—many hikes and activities require a drive. Visitors arriving by car need to purchase a Kananaskis Conservation Pass in order to park their vehicle in Kananaskis or the Bow Valley.