Insider’s Guide to the Urola Coast, Spain

Top 5 Can’t Miss

• Indulge in a five-hour lunch featuring just-caught grilled fish and txakoli.
• Hike along the northern route of the Camino de Santiago to visit Ermita de San Telmo and the unique Flysch rock cliffs.
• Visit a txakoli vineyard to learn about and taste the region’s unique white wine.
• Check into the chic Hotel Ur Bare, where you can sunbathe, surf, and dine at Aiten Etxe.
• Drink cider straight from the barrel and enjoy communal dining at a traditional Basque sidrería.

Located in northern Spain, along the Bay of Biscay and between the popular cities of Bilbao and San Sebastián, the Urola Coast of Basque Country is a breathtaking stretch of shoreline. Spain has no shortage of enchanting road trips, but those who choose this less-traveled path will be duly rewarded with cooler weather and fewer crowds. The region is rich with moments to savor: sweeping views of crystalline water hugging jagged coastlines; the refreshing taste of locally made white wine with a touch of effervescence; and expertly grilled fish, fresh from the morning catch.

I fell in love with the Basque Country decades ago when I moved here to study abroad. Now, I split my time between California and San Sebastián, where I curate small group tours through Travara, supporting the local chefs and artisans who make this area so special. It’s the perfect destination for a road trip if you want to avoid the tourist crush in larger Spanish cities and embrace the laid-back lifestyle of an overlooked region.

With stops in Orio, Aia, Getaria, Zarautz, and Zumaia, this trip is perfect for foodies and nature lovers alike. I tapped my inner circle of resident experts, including chef Gonzalo Domínguez and local culinary expert Maria Cueto. Here are some of our favorite spots.

Best Hotels & Resorts

Left: The spa pool; Right: Breakfast with a view at Thalassotherapy Zelai Hotel.

Thalassotherapy Zelai Hotel

Hotel Ur Bare

Nestled into the hillside overlooking the beach in Zarautz, Ur Bare is one of the most stylish hotels on the Basque coast. I will stay anywhere Cueto recommends, and this is her top choice in the area for its “stunning interior design, decor, and chic vibe on the beach.”

Iturregi

Iturregi exudes a sense of privacy and tranquility. Appreciated by locals and visited by celebs like Elsa Pataky, Chris Hemsworth, and Matt Damon, this luxury farmhouse in Getaria is an idyllic base set among the owners’ txakoli vineyards.

Agroturismo Itxaspe

Just outside the center of Orio, Agroturismo Itxaspe is recommended by Domínguez and his friends for its local charm. A stone farmhouse overlooking the sea, Itxaspe has a handful of rooms and apartments, with sea-view terraces and an infinity pool. It’s the perfect place to retire after a visit to Bodega Katxiña.

Zelai Hotel & Talasoterapia

If sipping coffee and enjoying a view of Itzurun Beach with Ermita de San Telmo to your left and Flysch cliffs to your right sounds like a nice way to wake up, I recommend booking a stay at Zelai Hotel & Talasoterapia. Try the thalassotherapy circuit that uses local sodium-rich seawater to rejuvenate.

Akelarre Hotel

A great base for the beginning or end of your road trip, Akelarre Hotel is technically located on Igeldo, the mountainous area above San Sebastián. This is a luxurious, Relais & Châteaux property where the swanky cocktail terrace, Espazio Oteiza, is one of my favorites for the jaw-dropping coastal views.

Best Things to Do

The landscape of Txakoli vineyards.

Michelle Martin/Travel + Leisure

Enjoy a lengthy lunch featuring grilled fish.

If you ask a Basque Country local, the perfect lunch starts with an aperitivo, usually vermouth, on a seaside terrace. In Getaria, the star ingredient, fish, is typically cooked on the grill outside the door of every restaurant. Take your time and savor each course all the way through post-dessert cocktails, which usually coincide with sunset.

Spend a day visiting txakoli vineyards.

In the heart of the txakoli wine-growing region, a vineyard visit is a must. In Getaria, both Cueto and Domínguez favor the family-owned Txomin Etxaniz, in addition to Rezabal, Gaintza, and Ameztoi. Easy to drink, this unique wine will be a highlight of your trip.

Explore the Flysch cliffs and Ermita de San Telmo.

In Zumaia, Ermita de San Telmo, an iconic stop on the Camino de Santiago, is a 16th-century church perched on the rocky Flysch cliffs made famous in Game of Thrones. During low tide on the beach, you can explore the stunning rock formations that double as a natural art installation.

Dive into fashion history at the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum.

Born to a seamstress and a fisherman, Cristóbal Balenciaga got his humble start in Getaria and then moved to San Sebastián before becoming a renowned fashion designer. The Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum pays homage to his life and designs, and I highly recommend a visit.

Dine at a cider house.

A quintessential Basque experience is a meal at a cider house, or sidrería, like Izeta Sagardotegia, a local favorite outside Zarautz. Sandwiched between the sea and mountains, it has been in the Iruretagoiena family for five generations. Expect communal seating, a traditional menu, and plenty of self-serve cider from barrels.

Best Restaurants

Outdoor dining patio at Asador Bedua.

Asador Bedua

Aiten Etxe

Cueto recommends Aiten Etxe, located in Hotel Ur Bare. “The owners have roots in San Sebastián (where they picked up chef Rebeca Barainka) and upped the cool factor in surf-centric Zarautz,” she says. You can also have drinks on the terrace bar, Tarín, before or after your meal.

Elkano

While there are several excellent restaurants grilling fish outside their door, the Michelin-starred darling of Getaria is Elkano. Chef Aitor Arregi carries on the legacy started by his parents, creating a dining experience that balances traditional grilling methods with modern elegance and a reverence for fresh, local product.

Mayflower

If you can’t get a reservation at Elkano, Mayflower is another excellent option for a leisurely grilled fish lunch in Getaria. According to Domínguez, “At Mayflower, you can eat well at a reasonable price, and on a nice day, the outdoor terrace that overlooks the port is lovely.”

Asador Bedua 

Set on the banks of the Urola river in Zumaia, Asador Bedua is a seventh-century mansion that has served as a family-run restaurant for four generations. “This is one of my favorite summer spots,” says Cueto. “I love the riverside terrace seating with classic meat and grilled fish dishes.”

Bodega Katxiña

Hands down, one of the most beautiful restaurants in Orio is Bodega Katxiña. A lifelong project of the Zendoia family, the restaurant and winery feature my favorite grassy terrace that overlooks the Oria river and valley. Sip a bottle of txakoli before lunch while enjoying the tranquil views and birdsong.

Best Time to Visit

Ermita de San Telmo along the Urola coast of Spain.

Brett Martin/Travel + Leisure

The best time to visit the Urola Coast is in the spring and fall. It rains almost all year in the Basque Country, resulting in lush, verdant hills. April and May are good months to visit as rain begins to lighten up and spring has fully sprung. Fall is the next best time to go, between September and November.

Even though the Urola Coast is much less crowded than neighboring cities Bilbao or San Sebastián, you will likely stop through one of those cities to start your road trip, and they can get quite crowded in peak summer months.

How to Get There

A road along the coast leading towards the town of Zarauz.

Tomas/Adobe Stock

The closest international airport is Bilbao Airport (BIO). San Sebastián’s regional airport (EAS), located outside the city in Hondarribia, is much smaller and has fewer flight options.

Alternatively, if you’re traveling within Europe, you can take a bus or train into Bilbao or San Sebastián and rent a car. FlixBus, Avanza, and Alsa are bus options, and Renfe provides train service.

Best Towns to Visit

The town of Zarauz along the Urola Coast.

Tomas/Adobe Stock

Getaria

A small, underrated fishing village, Getaria is the birthplace of Balenciaga and Juan Sebastián Elcano (who circumnavigated the world with Magellan). Synonymous with txakoli, it’s one of Domínguez’s favorite seaside stops to share with friends and visitors for a grilled fish lunch with a dose of Basque pride and history.

Zarautz

Known for having one of the best beaches in Spain, Zarautz is a surf town with waterfront restaurants and a thriving old town. Basque chef Karlos Arguiñano and his family have a historical foothold here, with a hotel on the beach and multiple restaurants.

Zumaia

A cherished coastal stop on the Camino de Santiago, Zumaia is the starting point for the Basque Coast Geopark, where unique sea-carved coastal cliffs called Flysch form a stunning coastline teeming with biodiversity. There’s also a lovely riverfront promenade where you can have drinks and enjoy the views.

Orio

Extending from the coast, over the mountains, and then dropping into a valley anchored by a river, Orio is a beloved gem in the Basque Country. Excellent dining, sweeping views of the valley and a small-village vibe make Orio the perfect off-the-beaten-path stop.

Aia

Aia is for nature lovers. Home to the Pagoeta Natural Park, the town has prehistoric ruins, rural farmhouses, a botanical garden, woodlands, and more to explore. Hike through beech, oak, and pine forests and learn more about the history of the park in the 15th-century farmhouse turned visitor center, Iturraran Parketxea.

How to Get Around

From San Sebastián, the local Euskotren or Lurraldebus can get you to Orio, Zarautz, Zumaia, and Getaria. While several restaurants, wineries, hotels, and sites are located near the train and bus stops, they may be too far to walk for some people. Taxis are available, but for maximum flexibility, I recommend exploring this region by car.