HomeTravelI Drove America's Most Terrifying Road, the 'Highway to the Sky'

I Drove America’s Most Terrifying Road, the ‘Highway to the Sky’


The overlooks, which offer sweeping views of the Rocky Mountain range, gave us a sense of the vastness of the park.

I gripped the steering wheel tightly as we ascended the mountain and snaked around a cliff with a hair-raising twist.

Don’t look down,” I told myself, as I contemplated the steep drop below.

But the view, with towering mountain peaks and deep gorges, was too jaw-dropping to ignore.

We were on the iconic Trail Ridge Road, which stretches from Estes Park to Grand Lake through the heart of Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado.

The 48-mile drive was not designed for the cowardly. With sharp bends and steep cliffs, it was a nail-biting ride. I immediately noticed the absence of guardrails that would prevent us from plummeting off the road.

At times, I had to grit my teeth as I nudged the gas pedal.

Fortunately, there were numerous stops along the way where my husband and I could hike, snap selfies, or take a breather.

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Soaring to an elevation of 12,183 above sea level at its highest point, this route—nicknamed “Highway to the Sky”—is the highest continuous paved road in the country and scary as heck to drive.

Courtesy U.S. National Parks

Had we driven from one end to the other nonstop, the drive might have taken only two hours each way. But we stopped frequently at the overlooks and trailheads along the road (many of which offer parking), so it turned into a full-day experience.

This marvel of engineering, constructed in 1932, made me feel like I was rolling into the heavens.

As scary as it was, it’s the best way to see the Rocky Mountains up close, offering a dramatic sense of the majesty of the mountains. It’s also a great way to see wildlife, such as elk, bighorn sheep, and marmots. I got close enough to the elk that I could have reached out to touch them, except that park rules forbid interacting with the wildlife. It also wouldn’t be the wisest thing to do since they can be quite aggressive.

I wound up on this landmark after attending a friend’s wedding on a gorgeous mountaintop in Longmont, in Northern Colorado.  The very organized couple sent me a list of can’t-miss activities in the region, with Trail Ridge Road featured prominently. “This is the scariest and most stunning drive you can take,” they promised. My interest was piqued.

I discovered it’s best to begin the journey in Estes Park, which is also worth exploring for its charming downtown.

I went online to obtain a timed-entry permit, a requirement for entering the park during peak hours, and opted for an early slot so that my husband and I could get the most out of our day. This system made our experience more enjoyable because it eliminates traffic and crowds.

I fueled up in advance because I heard there aren’t any gas stations inside the park, and stocked up on snacks and water, which came in handy during our adventure.

Before we left, I checked the park website for road conditions, which can be snowy in the higher elevations, even in the summer. The Trail Ridge Road is generally open from Memorial Day to early October, when the roads are clear of ice. But it frequently closes due to inclement weather in the mountains.

Alexey Kamenskiy/Shutterstock

We began our drive at the Beaver Meadows Entrance in Estes Park, one of the most popular entrances. This spot has restrooms and visitor information and provides easy access to the trailheads. A helpful ranger pointed us in the right direction and we were off.

Our car ascended, and the terrain around us rapidly transformed from green forests to arctic-like tundra.

As the car climbed into the higher elevations, the temperature dropped. I was stunned to see snow in June and was glad we had packed jackets.

With all the sharp turns, it was difficult to see the road ahead, so I slowed and looked for the signs indicating a scenic overlook.  The overlooks, which offer sweeping views of the Rocky Mountain range, gave us a sense of the vastness of the park.

These were my favorite stops:

Rainbow Curve Overlook: sits at around 10,800 feet and offers a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains, valleys, and ponds.  It was a clear day, so we were able to see the deep gorges and forests for miles around us, including Horseshoe Park and Deer Mountain.

Bryce-Bradford-CC-BY-NC-ND-2.0-Flickr

Forest Canyon Overlook: Here, we walked a short trail to an observation platform where we were treated to a panoramic view of canyons that had been carved by glaciers. Below the snow-capped mountains were valleys lush with trees.

Rock Cut: One of the most stunning views along the trail. When workers were constructing the road, they blasted through the solid rock, allowing visitors to drive through, but the rock formations on both sides of the road were preserved. We took the Tundra Communities Trail, which passed unique geological Mushroom Rock formations.

The Alpine Visitors Center: A must-see at 11,796 feet, this is the highest-elevation visitor center in the national park system. We perused an informative exhibit about the park and browsed for souvenirs at the gift shop. There is also a café where you can get hot drinks and use real restrooms.  Several short hikes around the center lead to beautiful lookouts. The air here at the halfway mark on the trail is thin, and I found myself getting out of breath more quickly, but it was worth it: We saw sheep, elk, beautiful wildflowers, and exquisite views.

Medicine Bow Curve: Situated at a hairpin turn on the road descending from the Alpine Visitor Center, this overlook offers panoramic views of the Medicine Bow and Never Summer Mountain Ranges, named for their snowcapped peaks. We stopped here to hike and picnic and enjoyed a view that extended miles around us, all the way to Wyoming.

Milner Pass: This is a significant landmark because it’s where the road crosses the Continental Divide, which separates the waters that flow into the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans.  When we got there, a cluster of tourists was snapping photos in front of the park sign that said “Continental Divide.”

When we finally arrived at Grand Lake, we stretched our limbs and relaxed by strolling around the quaint town on one of several of its walking paths. We also walked the boardwalk where we admired the sparkling water on the state’s largest and deepest natural lake. This is also a great spot for boating and there are boat rentals at the marina.

At dusk, we made the return trip, which went faster because we didn’t stop as often.  Now I wasn’t as queasy about driving the narrow road above the tree line, and I loosened my grip on the steering wheel.

As the car once again ascended the mountains and drove into the sky, I felt a small thrill: I was on top of the world.

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