For the collection, Oke-Lawal has enlisted the help of top creatives. Seasoned stylist and fashion editor Ola Ebiti, who has worked with the likes of Tom Ford and Acne Studios, is styling the show. It was Orange Culture’s bold and progressive aesthetic that first drew Ebiti to the brand. “There needs to be a brand that can bridge the gap between Africa and the rest of the world,” he says. While the appetite for African brands is increasing among US consumers, Ebiti says, the styling and the visuals must be carefully crafted to translate the brand’s messaging in an international way. “It’s one thing to have really good ideas, but it’s another to really be able to bring that to fruition and serve clients. For me, that’s always been my goal for Orange Culture.”
Orange Culture, which launched in 2011 in Lagos, quickly became a household name. His clothing brought something fresh to the Nigerian market, providing consumers with interesting silhouettes and clean tailoring. As demand for his clothes grew, the Lagos-based designer quickly amassed a cult-following across West Africa. Three years after the brand’s inception, Orange Culture became the first African label to be shortlisted as a finalist for the LVMH Prize in 2014, catapulting the brand into the international spotlight. Off the back of the prize, Orange Culture secured popular stockists, including Browns and Farfetch, and has showcased collections in Paris, London, New York and at Pitti Uomo in Florence. (Orange Culture declined to share sales figures.)
Though, building a collection that is immensely personal comes with risk, the designer acknowledges. Whether it’s well received by buyers, press or fans of the brand is something that weighs on Oke-Lawal’s mind. “It is a concern, because at the end of the day, it’s still a business,” he says. “Over the last two years, I’ve been very catered to my customers; I can see what they want. But I think this one is for me… It’s a scary sacrifice, but one I’m willing to take right now.”
Orange Culture’s show at the V&A in London in 2024.
Photo: Courtesy of Orange Culture
From Lagos to the world
For many African designers, building a leading fashion brand on the continent is not an easy endeavour. There are several socioeconomic challenges that make the day-to-day running of a fashion business incredibly complex — from power outages to domestic shipping hurdles and challenges importing raw materials. There are also limited opportunities for designers to learn, network and receive mentorship in Lagos, as the local industry remains nascent and fashion schools are incomparable to their international counterparts.
