This Lesser-known Colorado Ski Resort Has Après Hot Spring Pools—and Lift Tickets Starting at $9

Purgatory Resort

• Lift tickets can be as low as $9 when they first go on sale before the start of the season.
• The mountain is super family-friendly, with a dedicated learning zone and free skiing for kids under 12.
• Chances are the sun will be out, and Purg is known for its light, dry powder (all 260 inches of it, on average). Put the two together, and you’ve got a dreamy ski day.
• From the top of Lift 8, the resort’s highest point at 10,822 feet above sea level, you can see across the valley to the Twilight Mountains.

Two days before my ski trip to Purgatory Resort in Durango, Colorado, Facebook added a suggested post to my feed: a photo of the resort’s rates in 1965, the year it opened.

Back then, an adult lift ticket was $4.50 a day (roughly equivalent to $45 now). It’s cheap, yes, but perhaps more surprising is the fact that the cost of a lift ticket at Purgatory today starts at around $9. Prices are variable; they go up with demand, so the earlier you book, the less you pay.

Purgatory’s outrageously cheap lift tickets are what brought me and a gaggle of deal-hungry friends to the resort. And if you’re thinking the skiing has got to be subpar, keep reading. Purgatory, or “Purg” as locals call it, has 11 lifts, 107 named trails, and multiple terrain parks, accounting for 1,600 acres of skiable terrain. It’s got excellent tree skiing and a rolling-hill-roller-coaster vibe that’s playful and, at times, just the right amount of scary. 

The resort’s name (which, according to Roman Catholic doctrine, means a place of suffering inhabited by the souls of sinners en route to heaven) is actually a sense of pride for locals; they fought for its return after the mountain was renamed “Durango Mountain Resort” for a highly contested 15-year stint.

Theresa Blake Graven, a longtime Durango resident and co-owner of Treehouse Communications, which represents Purgatory Resort, said, “If there’s one thing Durango loves more than its quirky independence, it’s access to nature.” And Purgatory is one of Durango’s largest natural playgrounds—independently owned, family-friendly, and devoid of the Epic and Ikon crowd. Plus, there’s a natural hot springs right down the road.

Christian Ridings

When to Go

One of the best ski resorts in Colorado, Purgatory is typically open from mid-November to the end of April, weather permitting. The best time to ski at Purgatory Resort is between January and March. Like any ski area, it’s busiest on holidays and weekends. During the week, you’ll find fewer people and lower prices (and, in some cases, a $20 resort credit—more on that under “Lift Tickets”).

Courtesy of Purgatory Resort

Where to Stay 

Purgatory is 30 minutes from the nearest town, Durango, Colorado. You can stay at the base of the ski area in the village, which has mostly condos and home rentals, or stay in Durango and drive to Purgatory to ski. The former makes for easier access to skiing, while the latter is better if you want to do more than just ski. 

Purgatory Lodge

For my trip, I stayed at Purgatory Lodge at the base of Purgatory. There were five of us in the ski group, so our unit’s multiple bedrooms and full kitchen were perfect. There’s also a heated swimming pool, hot tub, fitness center, and heated garage parking.

23 Powder Ridge

If you have a big group, check out the five-bedroom, five-bathroom 23 Powder Ridge, also at the base of Purgatory. The multilevel home can accommodate up to 12 people and has a three-car garage, a private hot tub, and an outside gas fireplace.

Strater Hotel

The Strater Hotel in downtown Durango is a historic landmark property from 1887, with 88 guest rooms outfitted in Victorian decor. It’s just down the street from the launch point for the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad and a few blocks from the city’s best bars and restaurants. That said, don’t miss dropping by The Office Spiritorium inside the Strater for a cocktail.

The rustic exterior of James Ranch.

Courtesy of James Ranch

Where to Eat

Because Purgatory is 30 minutes from downtown Durango, you can choose to eat on the mountain, back in town, or en route. Below are a few favorites for all three options. 

Backside Bistro

Head to the upper level at Dante’s Lodge at Purgatory Resort for the best on-mountain dining. The Backside Bistro has big picture windows and beautiful views of the San Juan Mountains (it’s set at over 10,000 feet). “Alpine classics such as Wiener schnitzel, steak frites, and French onion soup are complemented by an all-European wine selection,” said Graven, noting that reservations are recommended. If you can’t nab a spot, you can still dine at the cafeteria on the lower level.

James Ranch Grill

James Ranch sits between Purgatory and Durango Hot Springs; while its meat and cheese are found at various restaurants and shops around town, nothing compares to dining right where the animals are raised and much of what’s on your plate is made. The farm-to-table fare doesn’t have to travel far, and the result is notable food and an authentic atmosphere.

Mountain High Food Truck

If you follow your ski with a soak at Durango Hot Springs Resort & Spa (always a great idea), don’t leave without trying the fare from its Mountain High food truck. During my visit, I was treated to an array of falafel, lamb sausage, and James Ranch cheese. The food is elevated but casual, and everything you need to refuel following a soak.

Sage Fresh Eats

Sage Fresh Eats in downtown Durango is the place to go for healthy, casual, and affordable fare. Expect meat-based or vegetarian soups, salads, sandwiches, and grain bowls, all with ingredients from more than a dozen local partners. Equally popular is its sibling restaurant, Zia Taqueria, which makes its own tortillas.

Eolus

The menu at Eolus in downtown Durango is modern American leaning Japanese; the wide-ranging menu runs from togarashi-seared scallops to lobster burgers. Graven says the restaurant has a great selection of meat, seafood, and vegetarian dishes.

Courtesy of Ska Brewing/Scott D.W. Smith

Where to Après-ski

Purgy’s Slopeside Restaurant

Purgy’s, at the base of Purgatory, is where everyone gathers to share stories from the day over a drink. “At the resort, it’s all about Purgy’s and live music on the patio; locals and visitors mingle near the firepit,” said Graven, who calls it your “classic après.”

The Nugget

During my trip, we went out of our way to visit The Nugget, located between Purgatory and Durango. The laid-back watering hole has earned something of a reputation for its colorful cast of characters and cozy atmosphere. It lived up to the hype. If you’re feeling social, grab a seat at the bar. The tiny upstairs space is best for rehashing the day and catching up with friends. 

Durango Hot Springs Resort & Spa

Follow your ski with a soak at Durango Hot Springs, a series of 40-plus pools set above a natural hot water aquifer, including five private Japanese-inspired cedar tubs. During my visit, I spent three hours hopping between the terraced pools. The sulfur-free water contains 32 minerals that will help your ski legs recover and leave your skin silky smooth. If you want to enjoy your post-ski soak with a cocktail, visit the on-site bar. You can also grab a bite from the food truck court. Make sure to book your soaking session in advance.

Ska Brewing

Graven says that if you have to pick just one of the six breweries in pint-sized downtown Durango, head to Ska Brewing, which has “a state-of-the-art tasting room and outdoor beer garden.” Inside, you’ll find the brews that made them famous, along with a few seasonal beers and hard seltzers. Grab a table at the outdoor beer garden if the weather is nice.

The Bookcase and Barber

One of Graven’s favorite downtown Durango spots, The Bookcase and Barber, is a speakeasy with a literary theme that requires a password for entry (you can find it online). She notes that “they mix incredible cocktails that change seasonally.”

Off-mountain Activities 

Durango Nordic Center

If you’re not interested in downhill skiing, you’ll find the Durango Nordic Center across the highway from Purgatory. There are over 14 miles of Nordic ski trails and four miles dedicated to snowshoeing. An adult day pass is $20 for skiers and $10 for snowshoers. Lessons and gear can both be booked online.

Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad

Riding the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad is a must no matter when you visit. In the winter, the steam train departs from the downtown Durango depot and makes its way to Cascade Canyon in the San Juan National Forest. “Along the ride, guests take in magnificent views of the snow-covered San Juan Mountains while relaxing in heated coaches,” said Graven. “The train takes a 60-minute stop at Cascade Canyon, the perfect setting for a fireside lunch, photo opportunities, or a walk along the Animas River before returning to downtown.”

Chapman Hill

In addition to Purgatory, Durango has a tiny, in-town ski area with an ice rink. Chapman Hill has been in operation since 1966 and is run by the city. In addition to skating, the family-friendly winter sports spot has two rope tows, a bumps course, and kid-sized park features.

The Powerhouse

This science center is located in the perfect setting: an old power plant. The Powerhouse in Durango makes for a great down-day activity, with “interactive exhibits and displays that engage visitors in hands-on learning experiences to make science more accessible and fun for people of all ages,” according to Graven.

Purgatory Resort on a snowy day.

Courtesy of Purgatory Resort

How to Ride 

Lift Tickets

Purgatory is one of the few ski areas in the United States where buying a single or multiday lift ticket is somewhat affordable. Tickets start from just $9, and the variable pricing system means the earlier you buy, the lower the cost. As more people buy a ticket for a particular day, prices go up—meaning high ticket prices will coincide with a busier day on the mountain. 

As an incentive to ski on less busy days, Purgatory offers “The Fun Fund,” a $20 per person, per day resort credit for skiers who buy lift tickets for select dates throughout the season. The credit can even be used to buy future lift tickets, so if you play your cards right, you might get a day of free skiing. Tickets must be bought 24 hours in advance to qualify.

Purgatory is also on the Power Pass, an affordable pass to 12 different mountains, including Arizona Snowbowl, Brian Head Resort, and Willamette Pass Resort. Kids ages 12 and under always ski for free at Purg.

Rentals

You can get your ski and snowboard gear from Purgatory Rentals, which has slopeside pick-up and drop-off. The basic ski and snowboard package starts at $49 a day, though note that the packages do not include helmets (they’re an additional $15, with a $5 surcharge if you don’t reserve in advance).

Courtesy of Purgatory Resort

Skiing and Snowboarding Info

Purgatory has 11 lifts and 107 named trails set on 1,600 acres of skiable terrain. The front side of the ski area is where you’ll find most of the green runs, while intermediate blue-run skiers can ski off any lift on the mountain with ease. Purg has plenty of single and double-black diamond runs, with some of the best located on the backside of the mountain.

Programming

Purgatory is a family-friendly mountain and, as such, has a great ski school with offerings to suit rippers ages four to 104. The resort also offers private lessons, multiweek programs, and a well-regarded adaptive ski and snowboard school. For kids under four, there’s a full-day childcare program known as “The Den.”