This op-ed originated from an Instagram post shared on 29 October by Sam McKnight, hairstylist and brand founder.
I’ve been involved with London Fashion Week since my dear friend Lynne Franks helped start it over 40 years ago, and, my, how it has evolved. However, the backstage conditions can leave a lot to be desired; too often unsanitary, ridiculously cramped, hot and frankly unsafe for the 120-plus artists, models, stylists and photographers to do their respective jobs to the standards expected.
I’ve been banging on for at least 20 years (at the risk of sounding like a grumpy old man — and now this GOM is speaking out on behalf of those who can’t, for fear of being blacklisted) about overcrowding, unnecessary and disturbing screaming and shouting, unsuitable and unstable mirrors, the lack of proper lighting, or hair washing facilities, drinking water, the list goes on. We are often expected to create immaculate and sometimes quite complicated looks in incredibly cramped conditions, trying carefully to manipulate our hot appliances without injuring models or ourselves.
Yes, it’s chaotic and stressful and we love that buzz, we are all extremely passionate about our work, but let’s not make it unnecessarily so. The beauty teams are referred to as “assistants”, which I feel needs to change. They are very experienced, talented craftspeople with often decades of experience. Some of my team have been in my team for 30 years. So let’s show respect. We love what we do, so help us do it smoothly, safely and efficiently.
Backstage workers are, I fear, conditioned to think that asking for our basic needs to be met is us somehow being difficult to work with. And there is the longstanding fear of being the whistleblower. But I’ve got my whistle out and am blowing it hard for all the people who feel they can’t. This area is long overdue for reform.
Backstage teams are integral to the success of every show, yet their value continues to go overlooked. Hair and makeup teams, production crews and other creative staff are often treated as peripheral, despite being fundamental to the final presentation.
