It takes conviction to present a spring collection made exclusively in neutrals and black (with the exception of occasional red surges), but Johanna Parv has it. The designer spoke of common connotations of pared-back palettes with her latest offering—“timeless,” “minimalistic,” and “quiet luxury,” among them—charged with function-driven gusto. “The way my mind works, there needs to be a challenge. There needs to be a question mark, then the answer,” she said at a preview.
There were welcome surprises: Amid developments of her practical-leaning silhouettes, a silk-jersey set, comprised of a long-sleeve shirt and maxiskirt, stood out. And another: A ribbed sheer skirt with built-in “panties” felt like it belonged in the same family as her sporty Lycra creations from seasons past, but it wasn’t necessarily to be expected. Nonetheless, it looked great with a stretchy long-sleeve on the runway. “It feels more mature,” said Parv. (Elegant and traditional were other words that circulated during the conversation.)
By contrast, the Flow shorts—cut just above the knee with a sideswept drape, giving the appearance of a skirt—and the technical, water-repellent linen curve trousers (slim at the top, ballooned on the leg, four pockets) were much more familiar. Naturally, there were spring outerwear options aplenty: A funnel-neck drawstring-waistband style, a new sturdy canvas zip-up, and a longline coat were the key players. “These are the layers to put over the top of your clothes, to protect you from the elements,” she said, noting the differences between them. Parv’s well-received take on suiting, consisting of curved-cuff slim-fit trousers and a darted, stand-collar jacket, made a wanted return in pin-striped water-resistant wool.
As always at a Parv preview, there was a comprehensive show-and-tell of accessories. A multiwear bag concept returned: Parv encouraged it to be worn around the waist, on the shoulder, or as a tote; ditto the vintage bags she has included from the outset. “No one’s making bags like this anymore,” she said, grasping a ’60s clip-top purse with intricate side details transformed into a Parv piece with the mere addition of a belt strap. (She doesn’t like to alter their original shapes too much because “it keeps the soul.”) There was a new leather frame bag too, to be strapped onto a bike if one so wishes.
At the show, the models’ assured strides in the clothes reflected the noticeably more elevated mood. “We always used to think go, go, go, and you go so fast that you don’t even stop. And now we’re thinking: Hang on a minute,” said the designer. Maybe she’s pausing and taking stock, but Johanna Parv’s vision is very much in motion.
