Much like the electricity that once charged through today’s venue, designers such as Patrick McDowell are powering London fashion. With a few shows under their belt but a still-fledgling business, McDowell belongs to a generation molded during one of the hardest times for luxury. Which in turn seems to have made them all the more pragmatic and determined to succeed.
Today’s show at London’s Battersea Power Station didn’t come easily for the designer, who has so far ran a bespoke business. McDowell wanted to create this collection a year ago but didn’t have the funds. But then in May they were awarded the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, which they say has changed business dramatically. So McDowell is now introducing ready-to-wear. “We were finally in a position where we could grow the team a little and also had the space to create this collection, which I’ve always dreamed of doing,” said the designer. “We’ve really built the wardrobe out this time.”
The collection, titled The Lancashire Rose, was an homage to McDowell’s grandmother Kathleen, who passed away four years ago. Kathleen was raised in Lancashire’s milling and mining community. When the time came for her to marry McDowell’s grandfather, they could only do it on the 27th of December because that was their day off. And because it was the middle of winter, the only flowers available for the bride to hold were chrysanthemums. They made a lovely appearance in the collection in the form of vintage brooches that were sourced on eBay and pinned on bustiers as well as organza appliqués.
Kathleen also made her own dresses, turning the scraps into mini versions for her eight children. It’s the origin story for McDowell’s brand too, which is laser focused on circularity. “So many of those really practical ways of working came from her,” said the designer.
McDowell is nothing if not practical, taking advantage of the Queen Elizabeth II award moment and turning it into partnership opportunities that allowed them to put together their most thought-through collection to date. Bags, scarves, and a pair of slippers were created with Aspinal of London and also inspired by Kathleen. “My grandma always matched everything, wearing sets of shoes and bags. So every bag has a matching outfit,” McDowell said. Meanwhile, every product carried a digital product passport, courtesy of Certilogo.
What really showed in this collection is the years McDowell spent working bespoke. They seem to have really honed in on their customer, who they say is a little older and already owns all the big-brand staples, looking instead for statement pieces that only she can own. Standouts included a voluminous skirt made of vintage trench coats that nodded to photographs of McDowell’s grandparents honeymooning in Blackpool; a silk gray skirt suit with appliquéd black organza flowers; and a gold taffeta jacket that, of course, came with a matching bag.
